Well..
I fell for the old trap of commenting
in my last post how good the weather had been and set myself up for a
fall, and what a fall it was...
In my last update I was on the verge of
the Smokey mountains, a national park which is loved by the locals
for its soaring peaks (the highest on the trail at 6643 feet),
pristine nature and of course the bears.
The pristine nature is guarded on the
trail by enforced camping at the shelters which are of a much larger
size than their preceding kind, so I guess I should talk a little
about them. Shelters are small building usually made of wood,
sometimes stone with three walls and a flat wooden base allowing
people to camp underneath without the need for a tent. Generally they
are 5 to 10 miles apart and can fit between 5 to 12 people underneath
depending on the size of the shelter. They are usually near a water
source (spring or creek) and have a privy (bush toilet) on the
opposite side to the water.
Sometimes they are on the trail itself
but just as often they are a short walk off the trail (or in one case
1.2 miles off the trail as in the rarely visited Whitely Gap Shelter)
Up until the Smokey mountains I hadn't
even visited any of the shelters on the trail because there are
plenty of campsites where those of a solitary bias (ie me) can camp
in peace and usually at a much more scenic location. That and the
weather had been great.
In the Smokies however, you have to
stay at the shelters and are only allowed to camp if the shelter is
full. The shelters at the Smokies are much bigger given the increased
traffic in them and had a double storey wooden platform so that up to
14 people can stay in them. They include such luxuries as extended
roof awnings, stone construction, wooden benches/seats and even
indoor fireplaces.
All of these luxuries however dont
really compensate for the loud snorer that invariably picks the
sleeping spot with the greatest acoustics and falls asleep before
anyone else.
Despite the regulations, I only have
only had to sleep in a shelter for one night so far (Silers Bald
Shelter) as the rest of the nights the shelters were full due to the
abundance of thru and section hikers so I happily pitched my tent
which gives me my happy little space.
The walking through the Smokies... The
night before at Fontana Dam a group of us hikers hitched a ride (6
hikers and 1 dog into the back of a pickup truck) into the local
servo which also doubled as the bar. We had a few drinks, played some
pool and then headed back to the shelter (the Fontana “Hilton”).
I was primed for the Smokies albiet camera less because I am a
hopeless luddite, I had laundered, swum in the dam, showered,
resupplied, updated blog, filled in my permit form and on a mission
to get to Hot Springs. The start of the walk was all uphill which I
tackled with gusto and soon caught up with James (Gandalf) and Dallas
(Bush Goggles) who had started a little earlier. I've ended walking
with them and John (Lady Slipper) through the whole Smokies. Well
walking together is a bit of a misnomer as sometimes we do but
generally we walk at our own pace and meet up in town or at a
campsite.
The first day the weather was grey but
the rain held until the afternoon which was just before I got to a
shelter. As the next shelter was 7 miles away that was it for the day
so I set up my tent as the shelter was full (well technically it
wasn't but I was sure it was going to fill :)). The rain went through
the night and continued through the morning so I decided to read my
kindle instead of braving the elements like the rest of the hikers.
Some may call it 'soft', I prefer 'safely negotiating hazardous
environments' which I did until 11 am. By then the rain had stopped
so I packed and walked to the next shelter where as I arrived the
rain started again so out came the kindle and I waited for another
hour until it stopped. Once it had I made a bit of a dash to the next
shelter and only got a little caught out by the rain so by the end of
the day I was quietly satisfied that I had 'dodged' the weather. For
the Smokies however that was only round one.
Round two was day 5 in the Smokies
which came after some great scenic walking through clingmans dome, a
visit to Gatlinburg (which I'll go into some more detail later) and
some awesome ridgewalking (great views on either side) on day 4.
Day 5 was at the northern boundary of
the Smokies and pretty much involved the descent out. We'd (James,
Dallas and I) had camped just outside Tri-corner knob shelter in a
bit of a tent city as the shelter was full. We had just passed the
10% mark of the AT trail and were planning to push hard that day so
that we could get out of the national park and go back to camping
away from the shelters. John caught up with us early in the morning
and seeing as he and Dallas are the fastest walkers they took off
together. Then the rain came and there was no avoiding it. Walking
downhill in the rain on a hiking trail is pretty much like walking
down a steep creekbed. You're trying to avoid walking in the puddles
as much as possible as you want to keep your feet dry but seeing as
the kickers on my boots have separated from the soles a little due to
all the times I've kicked stomes or tripped on roots it was kind of a
lost cause.
Still I plodded on, trying vainly (both
in the hopeless sense and the ego one) to catch the boys ahead of me.
I found some shelter at an overpass after I had finished my descent
and I managed to ring my socks dry and pushed on hoping to find the
boys camping nearby.
Unfortunately for me, I walked past
their campsite as I was climbing Snowbird Mountain and so I kept
pushing on, soaked into the cold rain cursing the boys for their
indifference to the weather. By 6.30 odd, I'd had enough so I warmed
my hands enough to pitch my tent and set up a soggy camp. Luckily my
50 cent black garbage bag (instead of a $50 bag cover) had kept my
bag dry so my gear was dry and I was in pretty good spirits that I'd
catch them up tomorrow.
TBC.. got to go meet up with the boys
to go for a dip in the springs
Sounds like a challenging few days. Inspiring reading and feel as though we're experiencing it with you.. Camera? Any chance of getting others to photograph the Luddite on the mountain too and send me a few for the book? Sorted your paperwork this end and have emailed with Mark etc.
ReplyDeleteHey Mum, I have bought a little disposable camera but I dont know how long it will be before I get some pictures up. Don't worry there will be some eventually.
Delete